
World Nutrition
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Volume 1, Number 6, November 2010
Journal of the World Public Health Nutrition
Association
Published monthly at www.wphna.org
The Association is an affiliated body of the
International Union of Nutritional Sciences
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Commentary |
The big issue is ultra-processing
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Carlos Monteiro
Centre for Epidemiological Studies in Health and
Nutrition
University of São Paulo, Brazil
Biography posted at www.wphna.org
Email: carlosam@usp.br
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Access the pdf of this commentary here
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Introduction
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The most important factor now,
when considering food, nutrition and
public health, is not nutrients, and
is not foods, so much as what is
done to foodstuffs and the nutrients
originally contained in them, before
they are purchased and consumed.
That is to say, the big issue is
food processing – or, to be more
precise, the nature, extent and
purpose of processing, and what
happens to food and to us as a
result of processing. Specifically,
the public health issue is
‘ultra-processing’, as defined here.
This is my basic proposal. It is
illustrated and symbolised by the
mass-produced double
cheese-and-bacon burger above. Such
products are made at distance as
separate items that are trucked in,
assembled, and made ready-to-heat
and –to-eat at a fast food site.
The proposal that food processing
has an impact on public health may
seem obvious. But it is largely
overlooked by conventional nutrition
science. As now applied in policies,
programmes and interventions,
nutrition science has failed to have
much significant impact on what is
currently the uncontrolled pandemic
of obesity. As a result, it is now
seen by policy-makers and the public
as not particularly relevant to
their needs. To be blunt, our
science has become somewhat
discredited. One reason, as I
maintain here, is that it continues
to depend on concepts and food
classifications devised almost a
century ago, which are now
obsolescent.
This commentary concerns the impact
of food processing on human health.
Its scope is relatively modest. It
only very briefly touches on
cultural and other social impacts of
ultra-processed branded products,
their use by transnational and other
giant industries to displace
traditional food systems and small
businesses, and other economic
impacts (1). It does not touch on
the effects of the globalised food
system in its present form on
national and international
stability, the living and physical
environment, and the biosphere
(2,3). Proper discussion of these
fundamental and crucial issues is
for a later paper.
Box 1
Food
processing
Food processing, in any
broad sense of this
term, is not a public
health issue. To suppose
so would be rather
foolish. This would be
like supposing that food
technology – or any
other form of technology
– is intrinsically
problematic. Much
discussion of food,
nutrition and health
that mentions processing
as such as a factor is
almost meaningless. To
begin with, almost all
food and drink always
has been processed, in
some real sense. A
characteristic of many
foodstuffs as found in
nature, is that they are
unpalatable or inedible
unless subjected to some
process, such as
preparation or cooking.
Also, all perishable
foods, unless consumed
promptly, need to be
preserved in some way.
This is a point often
and rightly made by the
food and drink
manufacturing industry.
Here are the
issues
The issue therefore is
not processing as such.
It is the nature,
extent, and purpose, of
processing, and in
particular, the
proportion of meals,
dishes, foods, drinks,
and snacks within diets
that are
‘ultra-processed’ – a
term I will precisely
define below in this
text. Also, it would be
absurd to suppose that
ultra-processed
products, which
characteristically are
ready-to-eat or
ready-to-heat ‘fast’ or
‘convenience’ meals,
dishes, foods, drinks,
and snacks, are some
sort of poison. Indeed,
one characteristic of
ultra-processed
products, as
manufactured by
transnational and other
large firms, is that
they are
microbiologically safe.
This is part of the
pitch made by
transnational firms.
Cola drink manufacturers
for example point out
that in countries where
water supplies are
liable to be
contaminated, their
products are a way to
avoid diarrhoeal
diseases. Such
manufacturers are now
also big players in the
bottled water business.
The issue is also one of
proportion. This
commentary does not say,
nor does it imply, that
the only healthy diets
are those consisting
solely or predominantly
of unprocessed or
minimally processed
foods. Nor is anybody
going to suffer as a
result of genuinely
occasional consumption
of for example chips
(French fries), crisps
(chips), confectionery
(candy), pastries,
biscuits (cookies),
sugared soft drinks,
uncontaminated burgers,
or packaged pizzas, to
name some ultra-
processed products,
although it is true that
any of these can be so
habit-forming as to
amount to a form of
‘soft addiction’.
The public health
problem caused by
ultra-processing becomes
evident and then an
acute crisis, as the
proportion of
ultra-processed products
within food systems,
food supplies and diets
rises, as it rapidly has
throughout the world
especially since the
1980s. A theme of this
commentary is that
ultra-processed products
now are becoming, or
already are, so dominant
within industrialised
food systems, that the
one and only really
useful way to classify
foods from a health
point of view (and other
points of view also) is
in terms of the nature,
extent, and purpose of
their processing.
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As stated in the boxed text here,
there is no issue with food
processing as such. Even the foods
and drinks we think of as fresh have
in a sense been processed by plant
and animal breeding. Tap water has
been filtered and purified. Food and
drink manufacturers rightly point
out that the human species has
evolved and developed by means of
discovering and developing processes
such as those that use fire and
water, and such as drying,
fermentation and salting, to make
raw foods eatable, palatable and
enjoyable, and to preserve them at
times of scarcity and in winter. In
doing so, manufacturers give us the
impression that their
ultra-processed products really are
nothing more than an extension of
artisanal foods produced in family
farms or prepared and cooked at
home. Any such impression is
misleading.
Examples of ultra-processing
To understand the impact of various
types of processing now on
industrial food systems, it is
necessary to be more precise. Take
the double cheese-bacon burger shown
in the picture above. It delivers
almost 1,000 calories, or close to
half the daily energy turned over by
a basically sedentary adult. This
‘fast food’, whose constituent parts
are mass manufactured off-site and
trucked to the burger outlet to be
assembled and heated on-site, is an
example of what is termed in this
commentary, an ‘ultra- processed
product’. Its substrates, and the
product as a whole, are the result
of a series of sophisticated
technical processes. Also – another
characteristic of ultra-processed
products – it features a ‘wholesome’
or ‘natural’ touch, in this case the
sesame seeds scattered on top of the
bun.
Burgers were first formulated for
the mass market over a generation
ago, and in a sense are rather
old-fashioned ultra-processed
products. Extrusion technology is
now increasingly used to fabricate
products. For example, ‘economy’
chicken and other nuggets often have
as an ingredient, a slurry
‘mechanically recovered’ from
remnants of the animals that
otherwise would be discarded, by use
of high-pressure grinders and
centrifuges. The animal-source
material becomes an ingredient much
like the refined starches, oils and
other substrate of the product,
reconstituted to look, smell and
taste like a juicy battered slice of
chicken.
As well as products using
animal-source material, increasingly
typical now, are a vast number of
other novel branded products that
are attractively packaged,
powerfully promoted, and formulated
to smell, taste and feel good.
Examined out of such stimulating
contexts, they often do not look
like food, being completely removed
from anything found in or directly
derived from nature. They are
confected from various refined and
processed materials whose total cost
is a small fraction of the price of
the product. Any ‘wholesome’ touch
is often supplied by added
micronutrients, whose presence is
emphatically advertised. Some food
technologists have celebrated
products like these as ‘space age
food’. Critics who prefer relatively
unprocessed food call them ‘edible
food-like substances’ (4)
Box 2
Industry
This commentary is not
an attack on industry as
a whole. Nor is it an
attack on the food
industry, or more
specifically, the food
and drink production,
manufacturing,
distribution, catering
and associated
industries and their
trade organisations, as
a whole. It might be
read as such, perhaps in
particular by those with
an interest in evading
the issues it raises by
labelling it, its
author, and his
colleagues, as
‘anti-industry’. But it
is not.
It should go without
saying that the
development and survival
of the human
species, and of
civilisation in any
sense of the word, has
always depended on
reliable and sustained
production of food.
Gatherer-hunters prepare
food.
Peasant farmers
cultivate and breed
food. The creation and
sustenance of towns and
cities depend on food
systems. Trade in food
as well as other things,
has built empires and
cultures. More recently
in history, the
emergence of most of of
the populations of most
industrialised nations
from misery, famine,
starvation, and
deficiency diseases, has
been achieved by
partnerships of
legislators, public
health leaders and other
campaigners, with food
producers,
manufacturers,
distributors, and
sellers. Modern methods
of production,
manufacture,
distribution and sale,
create secure food
supplies for all
populations and
communities with
adequate and secure
disposable incomes, all
over the world. To
demonise the food
industry as a whole
would be ignorant,
foolish, and in effect
irresponsible.
The makers of
ultra-processed products
That said, this
commentary is indeed
implicitly sharply
critical of the current
policies and practices
of food and drink
manufacturers, caterers
and associated
industries, whose
profits currently depend
on the sale of what are
termed here,
ultra-processed
products. The
conventional evidence
that some of these
products – in particular
sugared soft drinks – as
now consumed in typical
quantities, are
seriously harmful to
public health, is
conclusive. I doubt that
anybody independent of
the indicted industries
would now say otherwise.
What makes matters
worse, is that
transnational food and
drink manufacturers
continue to spend what
overall amounts to many
$US billions a year,
making claims for their
products, some of which
they surely must know
are misleading or even
untrue. No
uncontaminated food or
drink product is as
toxic as tobacco
products are, but some
of the techniques being
used by some
manufacturers to protect
their bottom lines,
their share price and
their investors, and the
salaries and pensions of
their executives, are
reminiscent of the
methods used by the
cigarette industry until
these were blocked by
legislation, including
the imposition of
gigantic fines.
Support or sympathy for
the prevailing policies
and practices certainly
of some transnational
and other big food and
drink manufacturers,
would also be
irresponsible, or at
least foolish and
ignorant. |
The picture below is of part of
the package of a branded sugary
breakfast cereal made by the leading
transnational food manufacturer. It
has been a popular product on
supermarket shelves in my own
country of Brazil, formulated and
marketed to attract children above
the age of 18 months. Such products,
most of which are made by three
transnational manufacturers, are
sold all over the world. Singling
out any specific ultra-processed
products, may give the false
impression that they are unusual
novelties. It would also be mistaken
to single out any specific
manufacturer, no matter how large.
Supermarket lead lines are the
result of lightly regulated ‘market
forces’. Production and consumption
of ultra-processed foods and drinks
has sharply risen, especially since
the 1980s. As defined below, they
now add up to a large proportion of
the diets consumed in most
lower-income countries, and supply
most of the calories consumed in
various high-income countries,
including the USA and the UK (5).
Readers with access to supermarkets
are encouraged to go and see for
themselves.

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The thesis
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This commentary distinguishes
between three types of food and
drink processing, and in turn three
groups of foods and drinks,
depending on the nature, extent and
purpose of their processing. The
first group are unprocessed (as
defined here) or minimally processed
foods. The second group are
processed culinary or food industry
ingredients. The third group are
ultra-processed products – two
examples of which are ready-to-eat
eat breakfast cereals and burgers.
Other papers of which I am author or
co-author have also outlined this
classification (5-6).
The fairly recent Brazilian
advertisement for the ‘big tasty’
burger shown above says that it is
‘The big hunger-killer’. The copy
says ‘Você vai precisar de muita
energia para levantar o Big Tasty’,
meaning that the burger is so
enormous that the customer will need
a lot of energy just to pick it up.
As can be seen, the advertisement
also carries a logo celebrating the
manufacturer as sponsor of the
Beijing Olympic Games. In the
advertisement, which is for the
leading global fast-food and burger
catering chain, the Big Tasty is
accompanied by a packet of thin-cut
French fries, and for the
figure-conscious, a small cardboard
bucket filled with chemically
sweetened cola. These are also
ultra-processed products.
The impact of ultra-processed
products
This commentary claims that the
rapid rise in consumption of
ultra-processed food and drink
products, especially since the
1980s, is the main dietary cause of
the concurrent rapid rise in obesity
and related diseases throughout the
world.
There are a number of plausible
reasons for this claim. For a start,
ultra-processed products, as a
group, are much more energy-dense
than unprocessed and minimally
processed foods and processed
culinary ingredients taken together.
This has been demonstrated at least
in two countries. In UK, at typical
fast-food outlets the average energy
density of the entire menus is 65
per cent higher than the average UK
diet (7). In Brazil, the average
energy density of ultra-processed
products purchased by urban
households for consumption at home
is 66 per cent higher than all the
other foods that are purchased (5).
Box 3
Evidence
This commentary is
proposing a theory, in
the dictionary sense of
‘a system of ideas or
statements explaining
something’. What is
claimed and proposed
here is new, and
therefore is not and
cannot yet be
consensual. Likewise,
the conclusions of this
commentary do not
directly derive from
studies whose results
are now generally
identified as ‘strong’
or ‘hard’ evidence. Such
studies, and in
particular randomised
controlled trials (RCTs)
whose conclusions are
made more powerful by
meta-analyses and
systematic reviews, have
not been undertaken.
Until now they could not
be. This is because RCTs
in the field of
nutrition and health
depend on a system of
classification of food –
itself dependent on the
concept that foods
should be grouped
roughly according to
their relative content
of chemical macro- and
micro-constituents –
which still almost
completely ignores or at
best marginalises the
significance of food
processing.
The theory of this
commentary is eminently
testable. It is
consistent with the
narratives of
independent expert
reports such as those
produced by relevant
United Nations agencies
and authoritative
national bodies. It is,
I believe, a more
plausible and powerful
account of the impact of
modern food systems on
human health, than is
contained in such
reports.
Why processing is
overlooked
There are a number of
reasons why the
significance of food
processing is generally
overlooked or
marginalised. One is
that food technology is
not included as a
significant part of the
nutrition science
curriculum. Another is
that nutrition
scientists continue to
depend on a conceptual
framework of their
discipline elaborated
from the discoveries of
biochemists between the
early 19th and early
20th century, which has
diminishing relevance.
Another is that any
approach to nutrition
and human health that
gives special attention
to food processing, is a
‘hot potato’. Even more
now in these days of
‘public-private
partnerships’, much of
the discourse of food
and nutrition policy
involves collaboration
between international
and national civil
servants, their
scientific advisors, and
university and research
centre departments and
senior scientists, with
representatives of the
transnational and other
big food and drink
manufacturers whose
profits depend on
ultra-processed
products. It may be fair
to say that most
nutrition scientists now
do not see this as a
problem. But it is.
Perhaps the greatest
impediment to seeing the
significance of food
processing in all its
aspects, is the
identification of
nutrition as solely or
mainly a biological
discipline, a branch of
biochemistry heavily
influenced by the
clinical ‘medical
model’. Many of the
points made in this
commentary, including
those made in this
section, are outside the
scope of conventional
nutrition science, and
therefore identified as
not relevant. But they
are.
The scope of
nutrition science
The significance
and impact in particular
of ultra-processing on
human health, can be
seen only with a ‘big
picture’ vision, which
identifies nutrition –
or at least public
health nutrition – as
also a social, economic
and environmental
discipline (8). For
older nutrition
scientists whose
training is solely or
principally biological
and medical, this is a
challenge.
Much depends on what is
counted as evidence, in
the dictionary sense of
‘facts in support of a
conclusion, statement or
belief’. Thus, findings
from the so-called
‘soft’ social sciences
need to be admitted as
evidence, and as a
necessary contribution
to any soundly based
conclusions and
recommendations on
nutrition and human
health. Also, wise
conclusions are not
mechanical. They require
common sense and
considered judgement.
Further, there are
occasions in public life
that are so urgent,
important and critical,
that action must be
taken before all the
evidence that makes
scientists and civil
servants comfortable is
in. The impact of the
action can then be
examined and monitored,
and if necessary the
action revised. The
pandemic of obesity, in
particular among
children and young
people, is such a case.
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Ultra-processed products are
characteristically formulated from
‘refined’ and ‘purified’ ingredients
freed from the fibrous watery matrix
of their original raw materials.
They are formulated to be sensually
appealing, hyper-palatable, and
habit-forming, by the use of
sophisticated mixtures of cosmetic
and other additives, and
state-of-the-craft packaging and
marketing. Further, ultra-processed
products are ‘convenient’ – meaning,
ready-to-eat (or drink) or
ready-to-heat.
The leading branded ultra-processed
foods and drinks are manufactured by
transnational companies most able to
purchase substrates for their
products at rock-bottom or even
subsidised prices. They penetrate
new markets in lower-income
countries, with massive marketing
and advertising budgets, and may
undercut local industries, drive
them out of business, or take them
over.
In the last decades, ultra-processed
products have usually become
relatively or even absolutely
cheaper to manufacture, and
sometimes – not always – relatively
cheaper to buy. They are often
manufactured in increasingly
supersized packages and portions at
discounted prices with no loss to
the manufacturer. The packaging may
cost more than the contents.
Ultra-processed snacks and soft
drinks are available in
‘convenience’ stores and other
outlets often open late or even
24/7, and vended in machines placed
in streets, gas stations, hospitals,
schools and many other locations.
Ultra-processed fast foods and soft
drinks are the main business of
transnational and big national
catering chains, whose outlets are
also often open until late at night,
and whose products are designed to
be consumed also in the street,
while working or driving, or
watching television.
Over-consumption is also pushed by
lightly regulated or often
practically unregulated advertising
that identifies fast and convenience
food, soft drinks and other
ultra-processed products as a
necessary and integral part of the
good life, and even, when the
products are ‘fortified’ with
micronutrients, as essential to the
growth, health and well-being of
children.
A feature of the promotion of
ultra-processed products in Brazil,
and no doubt other lower-income
countries, is incitement to
over-consumption much more blatant
than any now commonly found in the
US, the UK and other high-income
countries where obesity is
understood by all to be a crisis.
Another feature is the direct
marketing of branded products to
impoverished communities (9). A
variant is the ‘floating
supermarket’ that recently has been
visiting riverside towns and
villages in Amazonia, shown in the
picture below. A company media
release explains that this ‘offers
access to Nutrition, Health and
Wellness to the remote communities’.
One of the products on sale is the
‘Bono’ sweet biscuit. In Brazil it
is advertised with the slogan (as
translated here): ‘The biscuit full
of filling. It’s hard to resist
Bono. Take one taste and you’ll
surrender!’
These are some of the contexts of
ultra-processed products. It would
be strange if, in the volume now
manufactured and consumed, they were
not a leading cause of the current
pandemic of obesity.

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A personal note
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Like many senior nutrition
scientists, my formal qualifications
are as a medical doctor with a
higher degree in nutrition. My
professional career also included
training in the USA, and a period
based at the World Health
Organization in Geneva. Unlike most
senior nutrition scientists, I am a
national of a lower-income country –
Brazil. For most of my professional
life I have worked at the University
of São Paulo. I divide my research
work between topics specifically
relevant to my country, and those
with higher international relevance,
notably focusing on the so-called
linked demographic, nutritional and
epidemiological transitions in
lower-income countries, in
collaboration with my long-standing
US colleague
Barry Popkin. (10-12).
In the last 30 years, as a research
scientist and a public servant as a
consultant to the Brazilian
government, I have had special
access to the excellent periodical
national surveys on health and
nutrition and on household
expenditures that are a feature of
Brazilian descriptive epidemiology.
A large part of my work has been
analysis of these surveys, in order
to track trends in population
nutritional status and food and
drink consumption in Brazil, and to
draw conclusions and make
recommendations, including to the
authorities in the federal Ministry
of Health in Brasília (13-14).
The shift in disease patterns
When I was a young health
professional working in Brazil,
obesity, and the chronic diseases
linked with obesity, was mainly only
of academic interest. Far and away
the most important public health
issues until the 1970s in most of
Brazil, and until later in
impoverished regions, were
infectious diseases, and ‘classic’
malnutrition – impoverished
populations suffering from
inadequate and deficient diets, as
they still do within many countries
in Asia and Africa.
The increase in overweight and
obesity in Brazil since the first
national nutrition survey, in 1975,
to the most recent one, conducted in
2009, has been phenomenal. The
combined prevalence of overweight
and obesity more than doubled among
adults (from 23.6 to 49.1 per cent)
and increased four times among
adolescents (from 4.2 to 16.8 per
cent) and 5 to 9 year-old children
(from 6.0 to 25.5 per cent).
The shift in dietary patterns
Over these years, what my studies of
household food patterns in Brazil
have showed, as seen in Figure 1, is
decreases in staple or basic foods
and also in basic culinary
ingredients purchased as such. In
only 16 years, from 1987 to 2003,
the consumption of rice and beans
declined by 10 per cent (from 22.4
to 20.2 per cent of total calories),
milk and eggs by 27 per cent (from
7.4 to 5.4 per cent), and fruit and
vegetables by 20 per cent (from 3.6
to 3.0 per cent). In the same
period, oils declined by 18 per cent
(from 12.3 to 11.1 per cent), table
sugar by 20 per cent (from 12.8 to
10.3 per cent), and wheat and manioc
flour by 26 per cent (from 4.9 to
3.6 per cent). As also seen in Figure 1,
in the same 16-year period, ‘cereal
products’ such as breads and
biscuits increased by 21 per cent
(from 12.6 to 15.2 per cent of total
calories), ‘meat products’ such as
burgers and sausages and ‘dairy
products’ such as cheeses and
sugared milk drinks increased by
more than 100 per cent (from 1.9 to
3.9 per cent), and soft drinks and
sweets increased also by more than
100 per cent (from 2.4 to 4.9 per cent).
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Figure 1
Foods whose contribution to total
dietary energy changed significantly
from 1987 to 2003. Brazil
Figures derived from national
household expenditure surveys

Source: reference 5.
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In terms of the conventional food
groupings used for dietary
recommendations (see the ‘food
pyramid’ later in this commentary)
the shifts shown in the figure are
hardly consistent with the increase
in obesity. True, consumption of
rice and beans and of fruit and
vegetables dropped, and of soft
drinks and confectionery rose, which
are the wrong directions according
to conventional recommendations. But
the foods whose consumption share
most conspicuously declined, were
those conventionally classed within
the ‘fats, oils, sugar’ food group.
These are usually recommended to
‘use sparingly’ (and positioned at
the tip of food pyramids). Also,
substantial increases were seen in
foods conventionally classed within
the ‘meat’ group or the ‘dairy’
group, usually officially
recommended in moderation (in the
middle of pyramids), and also in the
‘bread and cereals’ group, now
usually strongly recommended – ‘eat
more of these’ (at the base of
pyramids). So if anything, judged
conventionally, the main shifts in
dietary patterns in Brazil were in
‘healthy’ directions.
As time went on, together with my
colleagues, I came to realise that
what breads and biscuits, soft
drinks and sweets, burgers, sausages
and cheeses, and also ready meals
have in common, together with very
many other products consumption of
which is also rising all over the
world, is that they are
ultra-processed. And so it is time
to explain what this term means.
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What processing is
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International expert committee
reports are now beginning to
acknowledge that increased
production and consumption of
industrially processed foods and
drinks is an important cause of the
current pandemics of obesity and
related chronic diseases (15-16).
The 6th Report on the World
Nutrition Situation, published by
the United Nations Standing
Committee on Nutrition at the time
this commentary was being completed,
on a global scale notes ‘a shift
away from traditional diets towards
a more globalized intake pattern
that involves increased quantities
of processed foods, animal products,
sugars, fats, and (sometimes)
alcohol’ (17). This stress on food
processing is new.
However, no United Nations or other
authoritative report known to me,
includes a precise definition of
what is meant by industrially
processed foods (in this commentary,
drinks are included within the term
‘foods’). Also, distinctions are
only sketchily made between
different types of industrial food
processing, and indeed different
types of home preparation and
cooking. Further, biological
mechanisms by which the consumption
of industrially processed foods
could influence human health are
usually mentioned only briefly if at
all. (Nor are they here: this is a
topic for another paper).
In addition, to the best of my
knowledge, evidence presented on the
association between industrially
processed foods and disease is
restricted to that from studies
examining the role of just a few
products such as sugared drinks (in
the case of obesity) and processed
meats (in the case of certain types
of cancer) (15-16).
Discussion of processing as a factor
in human health may be inhibited by
arguments put forward by the food
manufacturing industry and its
associated organisations. For
example, a recent document carefully
states that ‘Many processed foods
are just as nutritious or in some
cases more nutritious than fresh or
home-cooked foods, depending on the
manner which they are processed’ and
correctly, that ‘Nowadays, it is
difficult to eat a diet based on
fresh, unprocessed foods’, while
going on to say rather more
tendentiously ‘The major portion of
our family’s food needs comes from
processed food products that add
variety to our diet and convenience
to our busy lives. Processed foods
enable consumers to shop less
frequently and to stock a wide range
of foods on which to base varied and
nutritious meals’ (18).
So what to think? Clarity requires
clear definitions of industrial food
processing, and clear distinctions
between different types of
processing. It also requires a
classification of foods according to
the nature, extent, and purpose of
processing. Following, is what I
with my colleagues propose.
What unprocessed food is
Food is any substance intended to
be, or reasonably expected to be,
ingested by humans that provides
nutrients needed to maintain life.
Unprocessed foods, also known as
fresh foods, are defined here as
parts of plants (such as seeds,
leaves, roots, fruits) or animals
(such as muscles, offals, milk,
blood) and also fungi or algae,
shortly after they have been
harvested, butchered or extracted,
or after they have been gathered
from nature.
Most unprocessed foods have two
important limitations. First, they
are highly perishable and cannot be
stored for a long time. Second, they
require kitchen (culinary)
preparation and cooking to be
digestible, safe, and palatable.
These limitations are the main
reasons for the development of
numerous techniques of industrial
food processing.
What industrial food
processing is
Industrial food processing is
defined here as a series of
industry-performed operations by
which unprocessed foods are
converted into foodstuffs suitable
for storage and/or consumption, with
less or no kitchen (culinary)
preparation and cooking. Figure 2
shows the position of industrial
food processing in food systems.
____________________________________________________________
Figure 2
Industrial processing within food
systems

____________________________________________________________
|
|
The three types of processing
 |
A classification of three types of
food processing, and a corresponding
three groups of processed foods, the
result of discussions that began in
2008, is now proposed. Also
described elsewhere (6), these are
now summarised.
A classification with more or many
more divisions could be made, and
much of the discussion I have shared
with colleagues has been on this
point. Eventually, we all agreed
that the simplest possible system,
focusing on the general purposes and
nature of processing, was best. The
classification does not imply that
what are defined here as
‘ultra-processed’ products are best
never consumed (while as already
mentioned, some products in this
group are formulated to be
habit-forming to the point of being
‘softly addictive’). It is safe to
say that nobody has ever become sick
as a result of consuming one burger,
unless it was infected with
pathogenic microbes. The issue is
one of proportion.
Type 1 processing
The processes classified here as
type 1 do not substantially change
the nutritional properties of the
original unprocessed foods, and may
improve them, intrinsically or in
effect. Such processes include and
are not confined to cleaning,
removal of inedible fractions,
grating, squeezing, draining,
flaking, drying, parboiling,
bottling (without additions other
than water), chilling, freezing,
fermentation (when the result is not
alcoholic), pasteurisation, vacuum
and gas packing, and simple
wrapping.
The purpose of type 1 food
processing is to extend the duration
of unprocessed foods, to enable
extended storage, and often to
reduce the time and effort involved
in their culinary preparation. The
results of type 1 food processing
are minimally processed foods,
classified below as group 1 foods,
together with fresh, perishable,
unprocessed foods. Meat and milk,
cereals (grains), pulses (legumes),
nuts, and fruits, vegetables, roots
and tubers sold as such, are usually
minimally processed in various ways.
Type 1 food processing is usually
undertaken by the primary producer,
packing house, distributor or
retailer, as well as by
manufacturers, for eventual sale to
consumers.
Type 2 processing
The second group of processes
extract and ‘purify’ specific
substances from unprocessed foods.
There are many. They include
pressing, crushing, milling,
refining, ‘purifying’,
hydrogenation, hydrolysation,
extrusion, and use of enzymes and
additives. Combinations of such
processes are commonly used to make
manufactured products.
One purpose of type 2 food
processing is to convert unprocessed
foods into culinary ingredients.
These are used in preparation and
cooking of unprocessed or minimally
processed foods in the home, or in
catering outlets such as
restaurants, cafes and street
markets where meals are made on
site. The other purpose of type 2
food processing is to convert
unprocessed foods into food industry
ingredients used in the industrial
development of ultra-processed foods
(see below)..
The results of type 2 food
processing are therefore culinary or
food industry ingredients, as
classified below. Examples are oils,
fats, sugar and sweeteners, flours
and pastas (when made of flour and
water), and starches. Salt is a
group 2 ingredient. Most end
products of type 2 food processing
are depleted or devoid of nutrients
and essentially provide energy. They
are not palatable by themselves
apart from sugar (which however is
not commonly eaten neat), and are
not consumed by themselves. Oils are
used in the cooking of cereals
(grains), vegetables and pulses
(legumes), and meat, and are added
to salads. Flours are made into
pastry used as a covering for meat
or vegetable dishes or as a basis
for cakes. Pastas are the base for
dishes that include vegetables, meat
and other group 1 foods, and also
oil. Table sugar is used to prepare
fruit- or milk-based desserts. And
so on.
This group also includes industrial
ingredients usually not sold
directly to consumers, such as
processed remnants of meat, high
fructose corn syrup, lactose, milk
and soy proteins, gums,
preservatives, and cosmetic and
other additives. In modern food
systems, the processing of such
ingredients is mostly undertaken by
specialist firms, for sale to food
manufacturers.
Type 3 food processing
The third type of processing
combines the already processed group
2 ingredients, such as oils, fats,
sugars, salt, flours, starches,
remnants of meat, with some (often
only a small or even minuscule
amount) of unprocessed or minimally
processed group 1 foods. Sometimes
no group 1 foods are included,
although they may be imitated.
Specific processes include baking,
battering, frying, deep frying,
curing, smoking, pickling, canning,
use of preservatives and cosmetic
additives, addition of synthetic
vitamins and minerals, and
sophisticated types of packaging.
The purpose of type 3 food
processing is the creation of
durable, accessible, convenient,
attractive, ready-to-eat or
ready-to-heat products. Such
ultra-processed products are
formulated to reduce microbial
deterioration (‘long shelf life’),
to be transportable for long
distances, to be extremely palatable
(‘high organoleptic quality’) and
often to be habit-forming. Typically
they are designed to be consumed
anywhere – in fast-food
establishments, at home in place of
domestically prepared and cooked
food, and while watching television,
at a desk or elsewhere at work, in
the street, and while driving. This
is why they are termed ‘fast’ or
‘convenience’ foods.
Ultra-processed products are
themselves of two types. One
includes soft drinks, and
ready-to-eat savoury or sweet
snacks, or products liable to be
consumed as such. The other includes
pre-prepared ready-to-heat products
designed to replace dishes and meals
in the home or on site in catering
establishments. Their processing is
undertaken by food manufacturers, or
by caterers such as those that
supply burger and pizza outlets, or
food retailers such as bakeries.
From the public health point of
view, ultra-processed foods are
problematic in two ways. First,
their principal ingredients (oils,
solid fats, sugars, salt, flours,
starches) make them excessive in
total fat, saturated or trans-fats,
sugar and sodium, and short of
micronutrients and other bioactive
compounds, and of dietary fibre.
Taken together this increases the
risk of various serious diseases.
Second, their high energy density,
hyper-palatability, their marketing
in large and super-sizes, and
aggressive and sophisticated
advertising, all undermine the normal
processes of appetite control, cause
over-consumption, and therefore
cause obesity, and diseases
associated with obesity.
Ultra-processed products are usually
not consumed together with
unprocessed and minimally processed
foods. They are designed to be
ready-to-eat or ready-to-heat, and
are often consumed alone or in
combination with other
ultra-processed products, such as
savoury snacks with soft drinks, and
bread with burgers. Any accompanying
fresh food, such as lettuce within a
burger, is usually little more than
trimming or decoration, added to
give an illusion of wholesomeness..
For this reason it is right to
isolate ultra-processed products in
dietary analyses and guidelines.
Figure 3 shows the position of the
three types of food processes within
food systems.
____________________________________________________________
Figure 3
The
three types of food processes within
food systems

____________________________________________________________
|
|
The three food groups
 |
Now for the three food groups that
derive from the three types of
process. Table 1 repeats some of the
information summarised above,
included here for convenience
____________________________________________________________
Table 1
Food classification based on the
extent and purpose of industrial and
other processing
Food group
|
Extent, purpose of
processing |
Examples1
|
Group 1 foods
Unprocessed or minimally
processed foods
|
No processing (as
defined here), or mostly
physical processes used
to make single whole
foods more durable,
accessible, convenient,
palatable, or safe.
Specific processes
include cleaning,
removal of inedible
fractions, grating,
squeezing, draining,
flaking, drying,
parboiling, bottling
(without additions other
than water), chilling,
freezing, fermentation
(when the result is not
alcoholic),
pasteurisation, vacuum
and gas packing, and
simple wrapping.
|
Fresh, chilled, frozen,
vacuum-packed fruits,
vegetables, fungi, roots
and tubers; cereals
(grains) in general;
fresh, frozen and dried
beans and other pulses
(legumes); dried fruits
and 100% unsweetened
fruit juices; unsalted
nuts and seeds; fresh,
dried, chilled, frozen
meats , poultry and
fish; fresh and
pasteurised milk,
fermented milk such as
plain yoghurt; eggs;
teas , coffee, herb
infusions, tap water,
bottled spring water
|
Group 2 ingredients
Processed culinary or
food industry
ingredients
|
Extraction and
purification of
components of single
whole foods in order to
produce ingredients used in the
preparation and cooking
of dishes and meals made
up from Group 1 foods in
homes or on the spot in
catering outlets, or
else in the formulation
by manufacturers of
Group 3 foods..
Specific processes
include pressing,
crushing, milling,
refining, ‘purifying’,
hydrogenation,
hydrolysation,
extrusion, and use of
enzymes and additives.
|
Vegetable oils,
margarine, butter, milk,
cream, lard; sugar,
sweeteners in general;
salt; starches, flours,
‘raw’ pastas and
noodles. Food industry
ingredients usually not
sold to consumers as
such, including high
fructose corn syrup,
lactose, milk and soy
proteins, gums and
similar products. |
Group 3 products
Ultra-processed food
products
|
Combination of already
processed group 2
ingredients usually with
some unprocessed or
minimally processed
group 1 foods in order
to create durable,
accessible, convenient,
and palatable drinks or
ready-to-eat or to-heat
products liable to be
consumed as snacks or
desserts or to replace
home- or
restaurant-prepared
dishes and meals..
Specific processes
include baking,
battering, frying, deep
frying, curing, smoking,
pickling, canning, use
of preservatives and
cosmetic additives, the
addition of synthetic
vitamins and minerals,
and sophisticated types
of packaging.
|
Breads, biscuits
(cookies), cakes and
pastries; ice cream;
jams (preserves); fruits
canned in syrup;
chocolates,
confectionery (candies),
cereal bars, breakfast
cereals with added
sugar; chips (French
fries), crisps (chips),
sauces; savoury and
sweet snack products;
cheeses; sugared fruit
and milk drinks and
sugared and ‘no-cal’
cola and other soft
drinks; frozen pasta and
pizza dishes;
pre-prepared meat,
poultry, fish, vegetable
and other ‘recipe’
dishes; processed meat
including chicken
nuggets, hot dogs,
sausages, burgers, fish
sticks; canned or
dehydrated soups, stews
and pot noodle;, salted,
pickled, smoked or cured
meat and fish;
vegetables bottled or
canned in brine, fish
canned in oil; infant
formulas, follow-on
milks, baby food.
|
Taken from reference 6.
1
These listings do not include
alcoholic drinks. The examples given
are not meant to be complete. Many
others can be added, especially to
Group 3, using the general
principles specified in the text and
as indicated in the second column.
____________________________________________________________
The so far irresistible
rise of ultra-processed products
All over the world, unprocessed and
minimally processed foods, and
processed culinary or food industry
ingredients, have been, are being,
and continue to be, displaced by
ultra-processed products.
Initial analysis of surveys
conducted in high income countries
indicates this process may be more
or less complete. In the USA, the
five most commonly consumed foods
are ‘regular’ sugared soft drinks,
cakes and pastries, burgers, pizza,
and potato chips. These are all
ultra-processed (19). In the UK,
eight ultra-processed products,
breads, cakes, pastries,
confectionery, biscuits, processed
meats, cheeses, and soft drinks,
together supply 45.3 per cent of
total household purchased calories
(20).
In Brazil my colleagues and I have
made more precise calculations based
on household expenditure surveys and
the classifications used in this
commentary. Here, the percentage
rose from 19.2 in 1987 to 28.0 in
2003 (5). Preliminary analysis of
the 2009 survey indicates that this
trend is continuing.
Calculations for the UK and Brazil
are based on household expenditure
surveys. So they do not include food
and drink products purchased for
consumption outside the home, which
by their nature will more often be
ready-to-consume ultra-processed
products.
The bulk of the current business of
transnational and other big food and
drink manufacturing companies, and
the principal source of their
turnovers and profits, are
ultra-processed products. In this
respect, while being competitive
with one another within product
ranges, they all have the same
overall policy. To adapt a jingle
once used by the leading cola drink
company, they want to teach the
world to snack. This is the problem.
There is no immediate answer, but
problems can be resolved only after
they have been identified.
|
|
Classification
 |
No classification of foods and
drinks, whatever its purpose, can be
clear-cut. Take the ‘Food Pyramid’
issued in many countries by
government departments as a guide to
good nutrition. One is shown here,
as Figure 4. It derives from what is
now a century-old classification of
foods usually into 4 to 7 groups,
broadly based on their relative
content of chemical constituents –
in particular, of proteins,
carbohydrates, fats, vitamins and
minerals.
The most obvious problem of this and
any other food pyramid (or other
device, such as a ‘rainbow’ or
‘plate’) based on such
classifications, is that they
include only a few of the food and
drink products that people actually
purchase and consume. In this
pyramid, soft drinks are not shown,
and nor are burgers, pizzas, or
other ready-to-eat or -heat foods,
dishes or meals. The base of the
pyramid, illustrating the
recommendation to consume more
starchy foods (‘complex
carbohydrates’) includes cakes, buns
and biscuits together with
wholegrain bread, oatmeal and boiled
rice. Overall, this pyramid makes no
explicit reference to food
processing. At best, it is not
particularly useful.
____________________________________________________________
Figure 4
A
‘food pyramid’

____________________________________________________________ |
The classification proposed in this
commentary is also not clear-cut, in
the sense of being unarguable, and
again it could not be. Overall, as
already mentioned, with my
colleagues I decided to keep the
classification simple. We were
tempted to make further distinctions
and thus create more groups. Usually
the argument to do so was based on a
feeling that distinctions should be
made between more or less healthy
and unhealthy versions, or less or
more processed versions, of the same
sort of food. Our decision was not
to do this, largely because we
agreed that the crucial distinctions
are to do with the extent and
purpose of processing, rather than
its intensity. Made into a manual,
the classifications can be
accompanied by text that explains
and emphasises differences in
nutrient nature and quality, and
type and intensity of processing.
Box 4
Meat and bread
Most quizzical or
critical comments on
this thesis, as
contained in papers
already published, or in
conference
presentations, have
addressed items in the
classification of foods
that seem unexpected or
counter-intuitive. Two
examples are meat and
bread. Should these and
other foods or products
give rise to
sub-classifications?
There is a case to do
so, and as indicated in
discussion of
ultra-processed
products, we thought
about introducing type
3A for ready-to-consume
snacks and drinks, and
type 3B for
ready-to-heat meals and
dishes. We chose not to
do this.
For different reasons,
many people might want
to make a sharp
distinction
between meat from wild
and free-ranging
animals, and meat from
industrially produced
animals. We discussed
this. Industrially
produced meat certainly
could be counted as
ultra-processed.
Strongly on balance, we
felt however that such
meat is not
‘manufactured’ in the
sense that sausages and
burgers are, and that
the arguments for making
it a type 3 product are
largely ethical and
environmental, which was
not part of our brief.
Also, and importantly,
we are not saying that
any item that is
unhealthy should for
this reason be classed
as type 3, or that all
unprocessed or minimally
processed foods are
healthy.
The classification that
so far has led to most
comment, is bread. At
the
September 2010 Porto
congress on public
health nutrition
Lluis Serra-Majem, a
leading champion of the
Mediterranean Diet,
stated that bread has
always been a part of
the healthy
Mediterranean Diet.
Indeed so it has, but
this commentary is not
saying that it is only
products devised by
modern industrial
methods that are counted
as ultra-processed.
People have been ultra-
processing meat and fish
by salting, pickling,
and smoking for
thousands of years. Nor
are I and my colleagues
saying that
ultra-processed products
should all be avoided.
As already stated, the
issue is partly one of
degree and proportion.
Rather as with meat, it
is tempting to make a
distinction between
wholegrain and other
‘rough’ or artisanal
breads that are
delicious consumed by
themselves or as a part
of meals, as
traditionally done in
the Mediterranean
region, on the one hand,
and on the other hand
breads that are made
from degraded flour,
pumped full of air, and
that are disgusting
unless used to be
covered with or to
contain usually fatty or
sugary foods. But all
bread by our and we
suggest any rational
definition is
ultra-processed.
Distinctions for
nutritional and other
reasons between
different types of bread
can be made in the text
accompanying general
classifications.
|
|
Three theses
 |
Within the general thesis set out
here, three proposals are made, in
the form of specific these that
derive from the main thesis, and
from the investigations and
observations set out here. They come
from a public health point of view.
Some recommendations are also
included.
Thesis 1
Diets mainly made up from
combinations of processed
ingredients and unprocessed and
minimally processed foods, are
superior to diets including
substantial amounts of
ultra-processed products.
Unprocessed and minimally processed
foods, processed ingredients, and
ultra-processed products, all have
advantages and disadvantages. To
repeat, it is not stated or implied
here that the best diets consist
predominantly of unprocessed and
minimally processed foods, nor that
ultra-processed food and drink
products are best eliminated from
diets.
One key aspect of the food
classification used here, is that
processed ingredients are not
palatable and with one exception
(sugar) not edible by themselves.
Their purpose, in all methods of
food preparation and cooking
developed until recently, has been
to be used together with unprocessed
and minimally processed foods, in
the making of the meals (including
feasts), dishes, foods, drinks and
snacks that altogether make up
international, national and local
cuisines. The main dietary element
in most ingredients is energy
(calories), and typically the
processes used to produce them leave
them with relatively few nutrients.
This is of course significant, and
they can be over-used.
Processed ingredients are not
the problem
Greasy and sugary cuisines, and
feast foods eaten regularly rather
than occasionally, are liable to
make their consumers fat. This said,
in judging the quality of diets it
is not meaningful to isolate the
nutrient profiles of ingredients,
because they are consumed together
with unprocessed and minimally
processed foods, suitably prepared.
The unit to assess is not the
ingredients, but the combination.
Furthermore, the dishes that result
are commonly consumed as part of
meals including fresh foods, such as
salads and fruits.
This is an important finding. It
explicitly or implicitly contradicts
most dietary recommendations, which
for half a century, and still now,
pick out ingredients in isolation.
Thus, the ‘food pyramid’ above
states, of fats and oils, ‘use
sparingly’, and other guidelines use
the same phrase for sugars. This
implies that the issue is fats and
oils as ingredients used by a family
member in home cooking, and usually
it is not. It also implies that
those responsible are the home
cooks, and this is rarely the case.
The finger is pointing in the wrong
direction.
In sharp contrast, ultra-processed
foods and drinks are designed to be
consumed by themselves. They may
seem to be industrial versions of
home cooking – combinations of
unprocessed and minimally processed
foods with processed ingredients.
Industry publicity is often designed
to give the impression that mass
manufacturing is really just kitchen
preparation on a bigger scale. But
this is not so. Characteristically
the amount of unprocessed and
minimally processed food included
within ultra-processed products is
minimal. In this case it is
appropriate to assess
ultra-processed products as a unit.
Further, the high energy density and
other properties of various
ultra-processed products, including
hyper-palatability and super-size
servings, and provision of a lot of
calories in liquid form in the case
of sugared soft drinks, sabotage
human (and animal) appetite
regulation mechanisms and energy
balance. Artificially sweetened
drinks stimulate cravings for
sweetness, making people more likely
to eat sweet foods. Passive
overconsumption and obesity is also
driven by the packaging and
advertising of ultra-processed
products.
The advice given with ‘food
pyramids’ is misleading. Since
governments usually approve official
advice after consultations with food
manufacturers, and/or expert
advisors who are executives of or
consultants to food manufacturers,
this is perhaps not surprising. It
would be more somewhat more helpful
if the ‘pyramid’ guidance was:
‘Avoid manufactured products
containing substantial amounts of
sugar and/or fat, especially
saturated fat, and avoid trans
fats’. But this is complicated
advice, and food labels are
bewildering. The really helpful
advice is simple. ‘If you consume
ultra-processed products, do so only
occasionally’. The text can then
specify what this means, making
distinctions between different types
of ultra-processed products. No, it
does not mean ‘Always avoid…’, nor
‘Never consume….’.
It follows that as a rule, all
adequate and varied traditional
diets are superior to any diets
containing a substantial amount of
industrialised ultra-processed
diets. A detailed set of
recommendations can quantify such
judgements.
Thesis 2
Almost all types of
ultra-processed product, including
those advertised as ‘light’,
‘premium’, supplemented,
‘fortified’, or healthy in other
ways, are intrinsically unhealthy.
Once again, just to make very sure
there is no misunderstanding, this
does not mean that occasional
consumption of ultra-processed
products of itself is likely to be a
significant cause of obesity or
chronic diseases – always allowing
for the caution that so many such
products are very skilfully
formulated, packaged and marketed to
be habit-forming. By analogy, when
dietary guidelines say that fruit
and vegetables are healthy, this
does not mean that an apple a decade
will keep the doctor away, and when
they say that alcohol is unhealthy,
this does not mean that a drink a
week, or indeed usually a couple of
beers or a shared bottle of wine a
weekend, is likely to do any
normal healthy person any harm.
The basic point here, is that
ultra-processed products have all
the disadvantages of processed
culinary ingredients, without their
crucial advantage of being combined
with unprocessed and minimally
processed foods. With exceptions,
ultra-processed products typically
are confected from processed
ingredients with little and even
sometimes practically no content of
unprocessed or minimally processed
food. Manufacturers often take a lot
of trouble to give the opposite
impression, in ‘friendly’ names of
products, references to herbs and
‘nature-identical’ ingredients,
‘homely’ or ‘country’ images used on
packaging, ‘warm’ copywriting on the
packaging and in publicity material,
link-ups with smiling famous chefs,
and so on, and in the product’s
presentation, which often includes
the fresh item sprinkled on top, or
conspicuous in some other way. Don’t
be misled.
Transnational and other big food and
drink manufacturers are now of
course sensitive to the fact that a
great deal of disquiet is being
expressed by citizens, health
professionals, and indeed
governments, about the obesity
pandemic. The current president of
the USA has given the impression
that left to himself he would impose
a ‘soda tax’ on sweetened cola and
other soft drinks. Industry is
united in promotion of spectator
sport and personal physical
activity, the idea being that people
who skip rope or do circuits three
times a week, or who play outdoors
with their children at weekends, can
consume all the processed products
they feel like, and get or stay
lean. It seems unlikely that anybody
really wholly believes this.
Ultra-processed products are
not good or better for you
Over the years, and increasingly in
recent years, manufacturers have
responded in different ways. One way
has been to divide their products
into ‘fun’, ‘better for you’, and
‘good for you’, and such-like
categories. ‘Fun’ products are, as
might be expected, ultra-processed
items about which nothing or almost
nothing nutritionally good can be
said – what are commonly termed
‘junk foods’. Techniques for
advertising these are somewhat like
those once used to advertise
cigarettes as essential accessories
of the good life – glamour, smiling,
sharing, and in the case of soft
drinks, convivial young people
partying.
The ‘better for you’ category
includes products that are normally
very fatty, sugary or salty, that
have been reformulated to be
somewhat less so, or to contain
somewhat more dietary fibre. Such
products may be promoted as ‘lite’,
but are usually still ‘heavy’ – just
rather less so. Rules are agreed
with regulatory authorities that
allow the manufacturers to boast
about these changes in big lettering
on the product labels. Cynics say
that these moves are similar to
those in the ‘low-tar’ stage of
cigarette manufacture. A strong
concern expressed particularly in
the USA, is that in the last 20
years or so, manufacturers have
removed some fat from their
products, and thus have been able to
advertise them as in effect ‘better
for you’ (or even ‘good for you’)
while preserving their ‘organoleptic
quality’ (or ‘yumminess’ or ‘more-ishness’)
by adding more sugar.
In one case, strong pressure has led
to industry seeing the writing on
the wall. Trans-fatty acids are now
being eliminated from many products.
These therefore become ‘less bad for
you’, but this is not a phrase used
by manufacturers. Sometimes products
boast about containing no noxious
substance, like trans-fats, or
cholesterol, that previously never
contained such things.
The ‘good for you’ category includes
three types of ultra-processed
products. One is product variants
marketed as ‘premium’ – high quality
or luxury. These may also be
marketed as being good for the
producer. Chocolate containing high
proportions of cocoa, often stated
to be fairly traded, is an example.
These are of course expensive. The
second type is reformulated to
contain more unprocessed or
minimally processed foods. Staying
with chocolate, brands containing
whole nuts are an example, though
chocolate usually relies on
marketing emphasising naughtiness
but niceness, with coy references to
chocoholism .
‘Good for you’ ultra-processed
products are now big business. Some
have been around for a long time.
These notably include milk-based
drinks and bases for drinks for
children, including young children,
and breakfast cereals. The claim is
based on their being ‘fortified’
with synthetic vitamins or minerals.
This is now a very sophisticated
business, as anybody can see by
looking at the nutrition information
labels of ready-to-eat breakfast
cereals, including some sugary lead
lines promoted vigorously as good
for children. The number,
combination and dose of the added
micronutrients is usually negotiated
between the manufacturer and
regulatory authorities, with
reference to the findings of
recognised international or national
expert advisory committees. This
enables strong claims to be made.
More recently, soft drinks and
waters are being marketed and
promoted as ‘fortified’ and
therefore healthy. One previously
niche brand of water with added
vitamins was recently purchased by
the leading cola drink manufacturer
for $US 4.1 billion. (Yes, billion).
This product is promoted as an
essential part of the gear of any
sparky young executive. Such
products obviously are not
unhealthy, for those who can buy
them, and are a better choice than
sugared soft drinks. They are
unhealthy only inasmuch as they
reinforce the notion that anything
eatable or drinkable that is
‘fortified’ is therefore healthy.
With the reservations and exceptions
mentioned here, all types of
ultra-processed products are
unhealthy, whatever they say, and
however legitimised their claims
are. As said, they undermine
appetite regulation and so drive
overconsumption and thus obesity.
‘Better for you’ and usually ‘good
for you’ versions remain high
energy-dense, hyper-palatable, fast
foods. The marketing of ‘premium’
ultra-processed foods and drinks,
which is misleading, is becoming
even more aggressive than the
marketing of their ‘regular’
counterparts.
Thesis 3
Significant improvement and
maintenance of public health always
requires the use of law. The
swamping of food systems by
ultra-processed products can be
controlled and prevented only by
statutory regulation.
The pandemic of overweight and
obesity, including among children
and young people, also greatly
increases the risk of ‘adult-onset’
diabetes in early life. We are in
the midst of a vast global public
health emergency. It is parallel
with, and in some ways linked with,
the more familiar outrageous
emergency of undernutrition, food
insecurity, and deficiency and
related infections.
At the root of both crises is the
ideology that has prevailed in the
most powerful countries especially
since the 1980s, and imposed by them
on most vulnerable countries. This
is the doctrine of ‘the sovereignty
of the market’. In practice this
continues to mean releasing big
businesses from what their chief and
other executives regard as
regulatory burdens, so that that
they can engage in any currently
legal policies and practices that
will maximise their market share and
their profits, worldwide.
This might not always be
troublesome. In the case of food it
certainly is. A relatively small
number of transnational food and
drink manufacturing industries, with
associated businesses, now dominate
international and global food
systems. Their competitiveness
within their own sectors disguises
the fact that they all have the same
overall interest. They are all
predominately or mainly in the
business of making and selling
ultra-processed branded and very
heavily marketed products.
What this means, is that legislation
is essential, to check and reverse
the worldwide increase in production
and consumption of ultra-processed
food products. This point should not
be controversial. In many areas of
public activity, enjoyment of and
pleasure in life has been enhanced
by regulations that govern access to
parks and wilderness areas, that
zone land for different uses, that
make neighbourhoods and streets
safer, and that protect children and
young people. Laws governing guns,
drugs, dogs, and cars, are now
rarely disputed. Laws governing
access to alcohol and that control
smoking have become rapidly
accepted. The same needs to apply to
ultra-processed food and drink
products, in the public interest,
and perhaps most of all vulnerable
populations, including the poor,
sick, and old, and mothers and
children.
A public health issue
At any population level, ‘business
as usual’ will not control or reduce
overweight and obesity. This is a
public health issue. All public
health challenges and opportunities
require public support, public
money, and public resources, from
the public authorities. This means
that formally the lead must come
from government, and in the case of
a global crisis at all levels, from
global to international to national
to state and province, to
municipalities and communities.
On 1 May 2009 the delegates
assembled at the World Federation of
Public Health Association, at its
global meeting held every three
years, agreed The Istanbul
Declaration (21) Its purpose is in
part to remind the profession of the
duties and responsibilities of
public health professionals
worldwide. Its preamble begins:
‘Now is the time to make a new
commitment to the health of
populations. The need for
improvement and maintenance of
public health must now be
recognised, advocated and achieved
by all policy-makers and
decision-takers. Protection of
public health is a first
responsibility of governments at all
levels, especially including heads
of state and prime ministers. This
implies renewed political will. It
also implies a new understanding of
public health as the first public
good, needing adequate and therefore
increased human, financial, and
other material resources’
The final statement of the preamble
includes: ‘We are now living in a
new world, of unique challenge and
also unique opportunity for those
committed to public health and for
everybody. The challenges we now
face are as great as those that
faced public health pioneers of the
19th and early 20th centuries.
Committed and sustained leadership
is needed, including from young
people. Now is the time for all
those who affect the lives of
others, working in government,
industry, and in civil society, and
as health care workers, academics,
community and faith-based leaders,
and citizens, to affirm the
fundamental and elemental importance
of public goods, including public
health, and to assert and practice
the basic human values of
solidarity, sustainability,
morality, justice, equity, fairness
and tolerance’.
With my colleagues, I agree that
this and other similar statements
made recently should become the
principles that govern and guide
rational policies and effective
actions. They should mark the
revival of public health in the
great tradition, which particularly
since the 1980s has become
increasingly privatised.
The need for rational law
How can the change come? As with
tobacco and alcohol, and indeed
other big public health issues, all
the evidence shows that the lead has
to come from governments. But
governments will not make the move
for public health until politicians
and civil servants realise that it
will be politically more convenient
to legislate in favour of public
health, than to leave transnational
and other big food and drink
manufacturers free to do whatever
they like within existing laws to
maximise their market penetration
and profits. This will depend on
sustained intense pressure from
intelligent and resourceful civil
society organisations, supported by
health professionals and their
organisations acting in the public
interest.
Regulatory systems can be flexible,
and allow for varying basic
circumstances. In some high-income
countries, the market may already be
saturated with ultra-processed food
products. In low- and middle-income
countries, these products are still
in the process of displacing
traditional food systems. This
suggests different regulatory
strategies.
A rationally and carefully regulated
market, with its implication of a
‘level playing field’, is in the
interests of industry. Any
unregulated ‘free-for-all’ makes the
more responsible companies the
victims of their most ruthless
competitors. Also, the transnational
and other big food and drink
manufacturers could do quite a lot
themselves. Product reformulation
can have some benefits, even if this
only slows down increases in the
prevalence of epidemic disease.
Other initiatives genuinely in the
interests of public health can also
be taken. With increasingly
impatient colleagues inside and
outside the public health
professions throughout the world, I
look forward to these.
Box 5
Two appeals
Here are two appeals.
The first is addressed
to researchers who, like
me, have
access to well-conducted
national and other
substantial surveys of
food
consumption patterns
over substantial periods
of time The second
appeal is
addressed to citizens.
To researchers
Information from
relevant well-conducted
surveys needs to be
pooled and newly
analysed, in terms of
the conceptual framework
proposed here. In the
preliminary stages of
this initiative, some
aspects of the system of
classification set out
here may be revisited
and revised. This work
needs to be done in
parallel with analysis
of trends in obesity and
chronic diseases,
allowing for agreed
time-lags between
consumption and the
emergence of clinically
observable diseases.
My prediction is that
the results will prove
to be a more powerful
basis for rational
policies and effective
actions designed to
control and prevent
obesity and chronic
diseases, than any
results which, as they
are now, are based on
obsolescent
classifications of food.
To citizens
Properly seen, nutrition
as practised is a branch
of public health. The
health of populations is
crucial to the social,
economic and other
aspects of the welfare
of nations. The current
pandemic of obesity is a
great warning sign that
something has gone very
wrong with the systems
of governance now being
operated in the world.
The issue is comparable
with and related to
other global crises that
are now
affecting us all,
including those of
finance, fuel, climate
and natural resources.
This is not a time in
history for ‘business as
usual’. Nor can
information and
education campaigns, or
charitable Initiatives
sponsored by
governments, industry
and foundations make a
really significant
difference.
What is needed is
structural change. This
can begin with groups of
engaged
professionals and
informed citizens coming
together, and forming or
reforming energetic
civil society
organisations. Then
legislators will listen.
I will support such an
initiative. Who will
make the move? |
|
Conclusion
 |

In this commentary, as stated
above, I advance a thesis and make
proposals not directly derived from
what is now regarded as the ‘hard
evidence’ of methodically
sophisticated and statistically
powerful randomised controlled
trials, meta-analysed and
systematically reviewed. However,
the relevant evidence and types of
evidence known to me are consistent
with the analysis, proposals and
recommendations made here. It should
be remembered that pandemic
overweight and obesity, including
among children, as illustrated in
the picture here, is an emergency.
Much of what is stated in this
commentary is circumstantial and
inferential, and so not normally
counted as ‘hard’ evidence – or
even, for those who only admit
results from trials, as information
that can be counted as evidence.
This must be so, because the
published results of trials still
virtually all derive from and depend
on a conceptual framework of the
science of nutrition that was
originally conceived in the early
years of the last century. This
framework, using classifications of
food largely derived from their
relative contribution of chemical
constituents, is not particularly
appropriate, helpful, useful or even
relevant in this century and the
circumstances in which we live now.
Until the 1980s obesity among
children and young people was
uncommon in any country, although
the population of the USA and a few
other countries was becoming
notoriously fatter. Now, populations
of obese children and young people
amount to the overwhelming public
health crisis in high-income
countries.
But as is now well-known, obesity is
not a crisis only in high-income
countries, and higher-income
populations in other countries.
Increasingly it is overwhelming
lower-income countries and, within
them, impoverished populations. The
picture that ends this commentary,
of a mother in her 30s and her
teenage daughter, in a provincial
city in my country of Brazil,
illustrates the point. In Brazil a
generation ago, obese young people
were rare. Not now.
In my judgement, the impact of
ultra-processed products on food
systems and supplies and thus diets,
is so blatant and obvious, that the
heavy burden of proof is on those
who wish to claim that
ultra-processing is harmless or
incidental to public health.
Evidence to back such a claim would
be credible only if it came from
studies undertaken by researchers
who are directly and indirectly free
from any inappropriate influence,
notably that of transnational food
and drink manufacturers whose
profits currently depend on the sale
of ultra-processed products. I
believe that such credible evidence
will not be forthcoming.
The main direct dietary reason for
the rapid increase in overweight and
obesity throughout the world
especially since the 1980s, which is
now an uncontrolled pandemic, has
been, is, and continues to be, the
correspondingly rapid increase in
production and consumption of
ultra-processed food and drink
products. That is the thesis of this
commentary.

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Request and acknowledgement
Readers are invited please to
respond. Please use the response
facility below. Readers may make use
of the material in this commentary,
provided acknowledgement is given to
the authors and the Association, and
WN is cited.
Please cite as: Monteiro C.
The big issue is ultra-processing.
[Commentary] World Nutrition,
November 2010, 1, 6: 237-259.
Obtainable at www.wphna.org
The opinions expressed in all
contributions to the website of the
World Public Health Nutrition
Association (the Association)
including its journal
World Nutrition, are those
of their authors. They should not be
taken to be the view or policy of
the Association, or of any of its
affiliated or associated bodies,
unless this is explicitly stated.
WN commentaries are subject
to internal review by members of the
editorial team. This commentary was
reviewed by Barrie Margetts and
Geoffrey Cannon.
CAM states: This commentary
was drafted and revised in a
continuous process by me and the
colleagues mentioned below. Geoffrey
Cannon drafted the boxed text for
revision and approval by me. The
commentary has benefited from
discussions I have had in the last
two years or so with my Brazilian
colleagues Inês Castro, Renata
Bertazzi-Levy, and Rafael Claro, who
are co-authors with me of other
papers referenced here, as are
Geoffrey Cannon and Fabio Gomes. The
main ideas underlying the different
nature of different types of
industrial food processing, and the
mechanisms linking ultra-processed
foods and human health, have been
developed with their help. I have no
conflicts of interest, unless these
include a firm belief that too much
power concentrated in too few hands,
as with the control over food
systems and supplies now exerted by
transnational food and drink
companies, is bad for human society.
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November WN commentary: |
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Carlos Monteiro. The big issue is
ultra-processing |
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