There is still plenty of juice
left in the Porto congress. Last
month I included three ’Porto
musings’ items. This month there
are two more, on the need for
jokes, and the need to be
active. Between them, the items
in the bumper number this month
touch on Bullshit Bingo, the
stones of Venice, Cokeistan,
roses, numbers, ethics, values,
and love. That should keep us
going.
Also, after introducing recent
columns with pictures of
glamorous women, I turn to
academic men, towards the end of
this column. Both these two
full-bearded coves were
physicists and mathematicians,
and students and then professors
in Scotland. They are William
Thomson, the first British
scientist to be ennobled, as
Lord Kelvin (1824-1907), and
James Clerk Maxwell (1831-1879),
whose portrait hung in Albert
Einstein’s office (1). Both were
devout Christians, and so in the
sense of the term used now,
creationists. They also shaped
the sense we have of what is
science. Why them? Well, some
readers feel that this column
has frivolous and fanciful
tendencies, so maybe portraits
of eminent Victorians from the
land of John Calvin will provide
balance and assurance. You want
serious? I can do serious. This
month I end with Ernest
Hemingway on the ineffable.
Footnote
- When I link the name of
a distinguished person to
the internet, I suggest you
start by accessing Wikipedia.
The entries on scientists
are usually excellent.
Porto musings (4).The profession
of nutrition
Bullshit bingo, and good humour
One special pleasure for me at
Porto, was inviting Michael
Latham and Walter Willett out to
supper at an al fresco
seafood restaurant chosen by
Walter on the Muro dos
Bacalhoeiros (the
‘Embankment of the Cod
Fishermen’). Boats loaded with
salted cod from the Newfoundland
banks moored under where we were
sitting, at first some decades
before Christobal Colón
‘discovered America’ (1).
Michael and Walter are both
professors at US universities,
and both have deep experience of
working in Tanzania – but had
never before sat down to a meal
together. Over polvo or
sardinhas, (octopus or
sardines) washed down with a
bottle of chilled vinho verde
and água com gas (white
wine and fizzy water), they
reminisced about the same
Tanzanian dirt roads they had
travelled, and the same lakeside
rest-houses they had stayed in –
but at different times.
They both know that the fate of
any nation is determined by what
it eats, and therefore are not
defensive. Not a bit – if
anything, the reverse. Both also
delight in stories and jokes. In
the midst of reflecting on the
Porto presentations, Walter
asked if we were familiar with
Bullshit Bingo. No, we were
not. So he explained. It’s a way
to keep awake and amused during
any technical presentation. As
in bingo, players are issued
with cards, printed not with 25
different numbers, but five rows
each of five phrases (or
acronyms) liable to be used in
the presentation. Mixed
metaphors are also included. As
in bingo, the phrases are
different on each card. The
presentation starts, players are
eyes down and then up to check
the screen, and the first player
to complete a line calls out
BULLSHIT! This is definitely one
for a future nutrition congress.
After supper with Walter and
Michael, I started to read food
and nutrition policy documents
through new eyes. Imagine a
PowerPoint presentation on
scaling up nutrition, and
its bullet-pointed phrases
likely also to appear on the
Bullshit Bingo cards. With
apologies to recent documents
ricocheting around the
e-circuit…
Use of evidence-based
methodology to show that
interlinking existing mechanisms
to shape the road-map towards
private-public-people
partnerships involving
multi-stakeholder fora and
concrete transparent dialogue
represents value-added
and win-win situations
and, in the present
credit-crunch are
low-hanging fruit for
sector-based platforms to
scale up nutrition, towards
deliverables for
sustainable food and nutrition
security for all. There is
need for high-level expert
panels that ensure
science-industry interfacing
and that harness upstream
drivers and grass roots
educational efforts. Also
interagency interchange
between SUN, CEB, ECOSOC, WFP,
IAEA, EIEIO, REACH, GAIN, SC,
necessitates lean and agile
structures as part of the
high-level world nutrition
architecture (2) …

Secure people have fun
Academics and other
professionals within our field
are often full of fun and
frolic, when away from their
desks. But they
characteristically are awful
careful and take themselves
awful seriously in their working
hours and in what they write
(3). Therefore here is proposed
Cannon’s Law of Reciprocal
Pomposity, whereby the less
important any science is
generally seen to be, the more
self-important are its
practitioners. A variation is
Wag’s Rule, which is that the
self-confidence of any
discipline can be gauged by the
extent to which its adherents
enjoy telling and taking jokes
about themselves and their
profession. This can be
expressed another way: The more
people have to defend, the more
defensive they are – which is
obvious, when you think about
it. If you can think of
exceptions, the response
facility is at the bottom of
this column.
Leading astronomers and
naturalists, who enjoy
prime-time exposure on
television, are secure in the
knowledge that the great, the
good, and the public, see their
profession as serious. Leading
psychiatrists and
palaeontologists write books
that become New York Times
best-sellers, full of amusing
anecdotes, not to mention wild
and woolly surmises, because
they have no worries about being
dissed (disrespected). On the
other hand...
Go on, have a chuckle
Nutrition scientists? Name me
two who currently are television
personalities or who, apart from
founder Association members
Marion Nestle (4) and indeed
Walter (5), have well-written
books in print for the general
reader. Outside Australia, you
can’t, can you? Just about the
most that nutritionists may do
to get their views or their
causes well-known on television
– maybe this includes you – is
to pop up from time to time for
a couple of quick
head-and-shoulder-shots and ‘noddies’,
sometimes styled as if A Doctor,
briefed to utter a couple of
sound-bites drizzling on about
epidemic obesity, starving
millions, portion sizes, or if a
smidge fringe, allergies
to additives or the perils of
Frankenstein Food.
Hey ho! Smiles? Shared warmth
with the viewers? Not a chance.
Indeed, tell me the last time
you read anything published by a
nutrition scientist that made
you laugh, other than in
derision or bitter scorn. If you
think what I am saying here is
wrong, you know where to go – to
the response facility.
References and footnotes
- And indeed, the
circumstantial evidence that
the Portuguese knew where
the land now known as Brazil
was, well before the
official ‘discovery’ in
1500, is pretty conclusive.
See Page M. The First
Global Village. How Portugal
Changed the World.
Lisbon: Casa das Letras,
2002. On cod specifically,
also see Kurlansky M. Cod. A
Biography of the Fish That
Changed the World. London:
Vintage, 1999.
- OK, a travesty, but I
must tell you that all the
italicised gobbledygook is,
save some adjustments, to be
found in recent documents
whizzing round the
e-circuit. Well OK, not
EIEIO, which is a refrain in
the song for children ‘Old
Macdonald had a farm’. Given
the appropriate documents or
presentations, and an actual
game, BULLSHIT! might be
called not after 100 words,
but say 400 words or say 20
slides.
- Let me scramble to add
that this outrageous
generalisation applies more
to nutritionists who see the
discipline as a branch of
biochemistry, who are less
likely to read this column,
than to public health
nutritionists, who are more
likely to do so. It does not
apply to food policy folks,
who are often a gas. It
certainly does not apply to
foodies, who are
characteristically
flamboyant. The hang-up is I
think to do with the futile
desire to identify nutrition
as a ‘hard’ science..
- Nestle M. What To Eat.
New York: Farrar, Straus,
Giroux, 2006.
- Willett W. Eat, Drink
and be Healthy. The Harvard
Medical School Guide to
Healthy Eating. New
York: Free Press, 2001.
Porto musings (5). Science in
the public interest
Our need to be active
One of my first experiences half
a century ago as a new Oxford
undergraduate – a ‘freshman’ –
was attending the ‘Freshers’
Fair’, at which student
societies and enterprises hawked
their wares, and youths (and the
few young women admitted to
Oxford in those days) fixed
themselves up with off-the-peg
identities. Thus, you could join
the Union, or the Conservative
Club, or Footlights, or the Jazz
Society, buy the weekly magazine
Isis, get 10 per cent off your
first curry, peas and chips at
the Dildunia in Walton Street,
or sign up to Ban the Bomb. My
best memory is of the Apathetics.
A languid figure approached me,
said ‘I suppose you wouldn’t
want to join, no of course you
wouldn’t, it doesn’t matter’
and, before I replied, he sighed
and retired. A story of gilded
youth.
This encounter came to mind when
I heard that a number of
participants at the Porto
congress – or, as they might
call themselves, ‘attendees’ –
were muttering that the
Association was giving space and
scope on its website to
‘activists’. Shock! Horror!
Since all meaningful terms have
an opposite, I can only assume
that the mutterers regard
themselves as ‘passivists’.
What is a ‘passivist’?
So, what are nutrition
passivists? Are they those folks
who investigate the pantothenic
acid content of biscuits
formulated to be parachuted into
remote areas of Afghanistan? Or,
who thereafter undertake
double-blind trials of two
parenteral feeding regimes for
Afghan children who were doubly
blinded and whose feet were
blown off as they scampered into
the minefields to take the
biscuits? Or are they those who
make the case for traffic light
nutrition labelling, for
communities living in areas of
cities where the traffic lights
don’t work, or where it’s too
dangerous for drivers to stop at
night? Or who – to take a recent
actual case – note the increase
in portion sizes of packaged
products in the Netherlands, and
recommend that more research be
undertaken into this aspect of
the nutrition transition? Yes, I
could go on and on. Flick
through the contents lists of
nutrition journals.
Ooh, very sardonic, you may be
thinking. Please don’t get me
wrong. Nutrition as a branch of
biochemistry has its place. So
does ‘community’ nutrition. Work
like the above needs to be done
– well, some of it – just as
physicians are needed where
there is famine, and surgeons
are needed where there are
battles. The level of standard
nutrition science of this type
is more routine. It is roughly
on a level with that of the
technicians whose job is to make
sure that the bandages supplied
to ravaged regions of the world
are antiseptic and absorbent,
and stamped ‘this way up’ on the
right side in the correct
language, as indeed they need to
be.
What an ‘activist’ is
But this need not stop
paramedics, or physicians or
surgeons, or indeed
nutritionists, lifting their
gaze above their day-to-day
duties, and asking why they have
to do what they do, thinking
about what are the forces that
cause misery and suffering, and
speaking out on what can be done
to – yes, make the world a
better place. That is, to think
and act not merely as
technicians, but as
professionals in the full sense,
meaning as humans, parents,
friends, citizens.
How come – as far as I am aware
– were there no presentations at
the Porto congress, on the basic
causes of the nutritional status
of populations in Iraq or
Afghanistan? Or indeed any
reference at all to the state of
these countries? Why no
discussion of the drivers of
malnutrition within inner cities
in the USA, or indeed
impoverished regions of Russia
and former USSR? And how come
presentations of the conditions
of life of communities in
sub-Saharan Africa usually made
no reference to unfair terms of
trade, the availability of
machine-guns including to child
‘soldiers’, foreign debt, the
reasons for and the implications
of mass rapes, the collapse of
primary health care systems
caused by ‘structural
adjustments’ forced on national
governments, and so forth and so
on? Why? Some others present at
Porto were saying out loud:
‘Follow the grants’. (See next
month’s column for further
thoughts on such matters).
Of course nutritional scientists
are not trained in politics and
economics. But we are conscious,
we have consciences. As I see
it, the moment we start to think
as citizens, we become
activists. Isn’t this what
public health nutrition is all
about?
Transnational industry
marketing
Coke™ in Venice, and…

Here is a test to check whether
you are an activist or a
passivist. Is your reaction to
this picture (1), of a colossal
monstrous Coke™ advertisement
stuck in front of the Palazzo
Ducale in Venice, complete
with arc lights for illumination
at night, as it is right now,
personal, or professional?
That is to say, are you now
thinking tsch tsch, this is
offensive – or, if you are a
Futurist, how great to see some
zing and bling among those fusty
ruins? Or, are you thinking that
this advertisement, and the
Coke™ vending machines already
installed in 80 piazzas
in Venice (2), are harmful to
health as well as being an
affront, and should be removed?
The personal reaction makes you
a passivist. The professional
reaction makes you an activist.
Barrie Margetts, as an art
lover, asks me if it is OK to
have a conscientious and also an
aesthetic reaction. Yes, and
that makes you a tasty activist.
Death of Venice
What’s happening in Venice? Why
is the Coca Cola company being
allowed to destroy the city in
order to save it? My wife
Raquel, who has lived in Venice
and knows the city’s politics,
explains. Previous campaigns to
save Venice have been backed by
the national government in Rome
with lots of public money, to
protect this world heritage. The
current government, controlled
by the maverick media mogul
Silvio Berlusconi, either
because of reckoning that Venice
is doomed anyway, or because the
Veneto region doesn’t support
the party now in power in Rome,
is abandoning Venice to
suffocate in its own sewage.
So the Venetian city fathers are
desperate, and lo, Coke™, fresh
from saving the world (3), is
now giving some dosh to save
Venice. This is a logical
approach. After all, it’s what
the Coca-Cola company, and other
transnational food and drink
manufacturing and cateriing
companies, are doing to save
Africa, protect Amazonia, add
lustre to the World Cup and the
Olympics, and rescue the United
Nations. Not to mention their
munificent funding of
universities, research
institutes, and teams of
scientists investigating the
links between food, nuttition,
and public health.
Birth of Cokeistan™

Veteran students of industry
game-plans discern an altogether
more imaginative strategy. Whole
countries and states are or have
been named after individuals.
Bolivia, Rhodesia (North and
South) (as was). Victoria,
Alberta, Pennsylvania, Carolina
(North and South), Rondônia,
Louisiana, Washington (state as
well as DC), Tasmania. And of
course two continents – the
Americas, named after Amerigo
Vespucci. Not to mention the top
saints.
So, who and what makes the world
wag now? We are not merely
talking Gatesville or Nooyiton.
We are talking implications of a
logical next step, with massive
moolah being donated by
transnational companies and
placed into the treasuries (and
in some cases the Swiss bank
accounts) of grateful potentates
who rule various low-income
states mired in foreign debt,
that thereby will in due course
become Greater Danonia, The
Federated States of Nestlé,
South Pepsylvania, Yum!Land, and
quite simply Mars. Not to
mention the World Big Mac Health
Organization. Oh yes, the flag
that introduces this item.
Familiar? It’s the logo,
complete with the corporate
swoosh, of the Beverage
Institute for Health and
Wellness, an inspired name for
what is actually a public
relations arm of the Coca-Cola
Company. And the logo? Also an
inspired design, for surely, it
is a flag. The flag of Cokeistan™.
Impossible? Preposterous? Look
what’s happened to sport. And
where else can United Nations
agencies and impoverished
national governments turn to,
for money to survive and do
their good work? Remember, you
read this here first.
References
- Kington T. Venice’s
historic buildings
‘violated’ by billboards,
say cultural experts. The
Guardian, 3 October 2010
- Cannon G Coke™ in
Venice, and other items. Out
of the Box [Column].
Public Health Nutrition
2009; 12, 6: 789.
- Gomes F. Six hours of
words from our sponsor, and
other items. [Column]
Website of the World Public
Health Nutrition
Association, October 2010.
Obtainable at
www.wphna.org
Science and its limits. Numbers.
Values
Describing a rose with a ruler
(1)
Now for a more considered item.
When you visit Rio de Janeiro,
do spend some hours in its
botanical gardens. They were
founded by Dom João VI in 1808,
his first year in Brazil as
emperor of all Portugal’s
possessions (1), and therefore
are near the centre of the
modern city. They are a
protected place of magnificent
tropical tranquillity, too big
and as yet too rustic to be
crowded. This summer they
included an exhibition in one of
the restored colonial buildings,
of elegantly mounted enormous
close-up photographs of
Brazilian nature – such as a
hornet’s sting, a dragonfly’s
wing, a crocodile’s eye, a leaf
with dew, the carapace of a
giant beetle. The visitor’s book
was full of comments like
‘wonderful, miraculous,
awesome’. Indeed so.
The exhibition also included a
prominently displayed statement.
Translated back into the
original English, this was:
‘When you can measure what you
are speaking about, and express
it in numbers, you know
something about it; but when you
cannot measure it, when you
cannot express it in numbers,
your knowledge of it is of a
meagre and unsatisfactory kind;
it may be the beginning of
knowledge, but you have
scarcely, in your thoughts,
advanced it to the stage of
science’.
Care has no number
That’s odd, I thought. Something
strange here. Natural history is
usually regarded as a science,
and it has been advanced by
classification and measurement.
But what was the purpose of the
placing of this saying of
William Thomson, Lord Kelvin, in
the midst of beauty? Raquel my
wife read the quotation
differently, as an ironic
comment on reductionist science,
and perhaps that was the
intention.
Back home I remembered that
James Clerk Maxwell, who with
William Thomson and others
harnessed electricity, and in
this and other ways did much to
begin the modern world, said
something that sounded similar.
He stated: ‘All the mathematical
sciences are founded in
relations between physical laws
and laws of numbers, so that the
aim of exact science is to
reduce the problems of nature to
the determination of quantities
by operations with numbers’.
Then I pondered, and then I
realised what they were both
saying. One clue, in both cases,
is key words in these
statements: ‘knowledge’ and
‘science’ with Kelvin, and
‘mathematical’ and ‘exact’ with
Maxwell. The other clue is their
professed religion: they were
both devout. This alone proves
that they never intended to
suggest that science is the
measure of all things. God has
no BMI. Rather, what they were
saying is that the practice of
science is that which can be
measured. They could not have
been suggesting that there is no
other territory.
In delineating the work of
science, and scientific
knowledge, they were therefore
also indicating the limitations
of science as they saw them (2).
As practicing Christians they
would have thought that much of
what is most real, and as such
felt and experienced, is not and
cannot be known, in the
scientific sense of that word.
Did they think that in a
universe from which the God in
which they believed was
subtracted, everything could be
reduced to numbers? This seems
to me to be utterly unlikely.
As I wrote this, my 6 year-old
son Gabriel yelled: ‘Bye-bye
Daddy!’ Raquel was taking him
and his cousin and pal Pedro,
for lunch with her father. So I
went downstairs to see them off.
‘Watch out for the lagarta!’
said Gabriel. He had noticed a
caterpillar with poisonous
hairs, out of its leafy element
on a stone wall from which I
might otherwise have rescued it
by hand. ‘Thanks’ I said, and
came in smiling. He is a
thoughtful child. Such simple
experiences, that parents may
enjoy any day, are not
measurable, except in rather
trivial ways. They are outside
science. They are part of life
as a whole, of which science is
also one part.
Wonder has no number

You don’t have to believe in God
the Creator, to realise that
much or most of what is most
meaningful is, in the strict
sense of the word, metaphysical.
Perhaps there are forty separate
systematic disciplines that
enumerate the universe,
beginning even before Egyptian
astronomy and calendrical
systems, but none of these add
up to the experience of sunset.
A fundamental reason why they
cannot, is that such systems are
structures that are seen as
being independent of us, whereas
the human experience necessarily
involves us. One of my favourite
pictures of Gabriel is the one
above of him as a baby, reaching
up to touch the first soap
bubble he ever saw, already
amazed. The sense of wonder must
not disappear. James Clerk
Maxwell very likely knew this.
He wrote verse, and in 1861 also
produced the first permanent
colour photograph, of a tartan
ribbon, using quantified
techniques. Here it is:

My guess is that what he felt
150 years ago is what we can
still feel now, of such
astounding revelations, and
indeed of what is in front of us
every day, especially if we live
with nature. By day here
sometimes great iridescent blue
butterflies circle one another
in our garden, and by night
little lizards come out from
under the wooden ceiling in my
room and, their sticky feet
splayed on the window in front
of me, wait for, pounce, and
devour mosquitoes. Awesome.
Miraculous. Wonderful.
The problem with science as it
is now generally understood – in
particular by those who are
conventionally trained in any
discipline identified as
scientific – is partly the
identification of all types of
knowledge with what is
measurable, which obviously was
never the intention of William
Thomson and James Clerk Maxwell.
It is also the overlooking and
ignorance of values, which
orthodox scientists seem to
think have been thrown overboard
with the jettisoning of God. But
conventional modern sciences
characteristically abhor or
abjure values and, instead,
accumulate ‘data-sets’ using
recondite mathematical
techniques, and seem to imagine
that manipulation of the numbers
(‘crunching’ them, as the phrase
goes), will of itself produce
solutions (2-4).
As one example, this accounts
for the supremacy and
catastrophic impact of Chicago
school monetarist economics,
which relies on arcane
mathematical modelling. In my
opinion, this also accounts for
the generally piffling impact of
current orthodox nutrition
science on public health, An
exception is breastfeeding. The
reason for this exception is
that, mainly because of the
pressure put on the scientific
community and governments by
civil society organisations,
breastfeeding is accepted as an
issue of principle, and as a
human right. It has broken free
of the numbers game.
Principles have no number
William Thomson and James Clerk
Maxwell were surely being proper
and precise in saying that the
practice of science is that
which can and should use numbers
as measures. Geniuses though
they were, if they thought that
the entirety of any science can
be quantified, they were
mistaken. All systematic
disciplines are founded,
explicitly or implicitly, on
principles, which include value
judgements. Values cannot be
derived from facts. William
Blake, whose vision of
Isaac Newton was as a man
who imagined he could replace
God, and who therefore was mad,
made his point with his picture
below of Newton as the universal
geometer, alone, naked, with his
instrument of measurement.

Numbers do not measure all
things. Any art, for a start.
Yes, it’s true that there are
Fibonacci Sequences and Golden
Means and Serpentine Lines that
can be traced in painting,
sculpture, architecture, and
other arts. But these are not
the arts themselves. Nobody
would ever say that a symphony
is its score.
The same applies to ethics, and
to ethical principles, which are
what we should live and work by,
as citizens and professionals.
The usefulness of any principle
can be tested empirically, which
implies enumeration. But it is
the nature of principles, and
indeed any norms or values, to
be, in the strict sense,
metaphysical. Unfortunately,
this is why conventionally
trained scientists evade
principles and values. In doing
so, they drain their work of
meaning.
Above all, what escapes the
measurers, are the mind,
emotions, wisdom, consciousness,
and life itself. These are what
is special about the human
species, and the whole living
and physical world. As did Lord
Kelvin and James Clark Maxwell,
we should use and respect
quantification, with all the
knowledge it brings, and at the
same time know that numbers and
measurements are tools, and that
is all.
Footnotes and references
- Wilcken P. Empire
Adrift. The Portuguese Court
in Rio de Janeiro, 1808-1821.
London: Bloomsbury, 2004.
- Stephen Jay Gould
had a bash at making the
distinction, in his book
The
Rocks of Ages (New York:
Ballantine, 1999). He says:
‘Science tries to
document the factual
character of the natural
world, and to develop
theories that coordinate and
explain these facts.
Religion, on the other
hand, operates in the
equally important, but
utterly different, realm of
human purposes, meanings,
and values – subjects that
the factual
domain of science might
illuminate, but can never
resolve’ He adds a joke: ‘To
cite the old clichés,
science gets the age of
rocks, and religion gets the
rock of ages; science
studies how the heavens go,
religion how to go to
heaven’. This is claptrap.
He seems to be saying that
all things can be grouped
together under either
science or religion, which
is absurd. He certainly is
saying that ‘purposes,
meanings, and values’ belong
within religion, which
unless ‘religion’ actually
means ‘philosophy of life’
is pernicious. Priests down
the ages have tried to
purloin ethics, but we do
not have to go along with
them. Furthermore, science
without ethics is extremely
dangerous, as the very
clever technicians who made
the first atom bomb came to
realise.
- This is not the first
time I have pointed out that
the function of mathematics
in modern science is in
effect identical with the
function of Latin in
mediaeval religion, to
bamboozle all but The Elect.
- It seems generally to be
supposed that because
scientists of any type now
shift vastly more
information than their
predecessors of 20, 50, 100
or 200 years ago, and
because the world privileged
people live in now is
technologically transformed,
that scientists now are
wiser. Not so. After a
while, knowledge drives out
wisdom. What scares me about
scientists, including those
specialising in nutrition,
is that first, there are far
too many of them, and
second, that the process of
becoming professionally
qualified forces all but the
most imaginative and
energetic to know almost
nothing outside their
technical trade. You think
this is too savage? Try
asking a colleague to name
three paintings, poems,
movies, and novels, that
celebrate food. Now ask
yourself the same question.
I am inclined to trust
nutritionists who, like my
esteemed colleague Martin
Wiseman, are masters of the
art of cooking.
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